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HUARAZ
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| *Location,
Altitude, Area and Population
*Brief Historical Outline
*Tourist Attractions
*Climate, Weather and Seasonal Information
*Routes and Means of Access
*Typical and Local Cuisine
*Calendar of Festivities and Tourist Events
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| LOCATION,
ALTITUDE, AREA AND POPULATION |
The
Department of Ancash is located in the northwestern part of Peru.
It possesses the distinctive feature of comprising within its boundaries
examples of virtually every ecological environment known. Its western
flank is washed by the waters of the Pacific Ocean. From there, progressing
eastward, it has sections of desert, arid western slope foothills
and highlands, green pastured interandean valleys and maize growing
areas, highland potato cultivation zones, some of the highest snowcapped
mountains in the western hemisphere and on the other side of those,
eastern slope midlands leading into highland jungles and cloud forests
of the headwaters of the Amazon basin. The area of Ancash is 36,308
km2 in size and it has a population of 983,500 inhabitants. The departmental
capital is the city of Huaraz, situated at 3100 meter of altitude
above sea level and 408 kilometers away from Lima. On its Pacific
Ocean shore lies the port of Chimbote, considered one of the largest
fishing ports in the world and main iron and steel industry center
of Peru. Up |
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| HISTORICAL
OUTLINE |
| The
historical roots of the region of Ancash go very deeply and a long
way back. One of oldest and culturally most influential civilizations
in the Western Hemisphere –the Chavin- flourished there between
1500 B.C. and 100 B.C. and established what is conventionally denominated
as the “Early Cultural Horizon” of Peruvian and Andean
history. This was essentially a religious and theocratic society,
based on the cult of a zoo-anthropomorphic deity with human, feline,
falcon and serpent characteristics. Although a fierce and aggressive
strain is consistently present in the social and cultural expressions
of this culture, the quality and workmanship of its lithic sculpture
and ceramics reached a point barely equaled and seldom surpassed by
later, subsequent, cultures. The last vestiges of the Chavin fade
around the beginnings of the present era and certainly none other
than inanimate remains were left in the region by the time the Incas
took hold of it in the XV century. Nevertheless, the local inhabitants,
by then called Huaylas and Conchucos, though very distantly related
to Chavin, resisted the Incas with the same warlike and fierce spirit
of their ancestors.
The advent of the Spanish conquest led to forays of plunder and destruction
in search of gold and treasure in the region. These were also met
with fierce resistance on the part of the Huaylas and Conchucos regardless
of the force and atrocities committed by Francisco Pizarro and his
host; and the Conquistadors suffered numerous casualties The invaders
did not succeed in establishing permanent settlements and land holdings
for a long time, this being one of the reasons that no precise date
for the founding of the Capital city of Huaraz is actually known,
although there are conflicting views on the subject. During the Colonial
era, Huaraz did not hold any position of importance as did many of
the other cities in Peru, As a result of this there are virtually
no traces of colonial Spanish architecture in evidence. Ancash did,
however, take very active participation in the Peruvian Wars of Independence
from Spain and many of the inhabitants of the region enrolled and
fought in the armies of Simón Bolivar in the second and final
liberation of Peru in 1824 (following the first liberation by José
de San Martín in 1821). In present times, the architecture
of Huaraz is quite modern in style and appearance, with tall buildings,
wide avenues and suburban neighborhoods. Much of this, of course,
is due to the successive reconstruction undergone by the city after
the devastating earthquakes of 1950 and 1970, the latter exacting
a toll of 30,000 lives. The city, and region, managed to overcome
these disasters and become again the administrative center and hub
of a large area of influence in Northern Peru.
In any case, whatever Huaraz may lack in terms of vintage architecture
is more than generously made up for by its natural setting, lying
as it does in the very heart of one of the highest ranges among the
many that make up the Andes, Longest Chain of Mountains in the World
and, along with the Himalaya, the Greatest. Up |
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| TOURÍST
ATTRACTIONS |
IN-TOWN ATTRACTIONS |
Plaza
de Armas de Huaraz- The Main Plaza of Huaraz around this
Main square and radiating from it is where the resurgence of the
several times devastated city took place. In present times, modern
buildings and residential homes predominate completely over any
remnants of the old ample colonial architecture. The immediate background
of the Plaza de Armas is occupied by the Municipal Palace. But the
major perspective is absolutely dominated, if not monopolized, by
the close proximity of a 50 kilometer long successive alignment
of colossal snow covered mountain peaks, the majority of which rise
above 6,000 meters of altitude, known as the Cordillera Blanca.
A mere 20 kilometers away and visible from anywhere in the city,
rises the greatest of them all: 6,768 meter high Huascarán,
highest mountain summit in Peru and third tallest mountain in the
Western Hemisphere. Seldom, anywhere in the world, are such massive
peaks so densely concentrated, found looming over a large urban
center as is the case in Huaraz. The presence and closeness of these
seems to form an integral part of the architecture of the city as
well.
Museo
Regional de Huaraz-Huaraz Regional Museum. Situated in
the Civic Center (Plaza de Armas), Contains valuable collections
of archaeological ceramics and monoliths from the various ancient
cultures that flourished in the region.
Santuario
del Señor de la Soledad- (Sanctuary of the Señor of
Solitude) Located in the neighborhood of La Soledad, Church
of the Patron Saint of the City of Huaraz.
Mirador
de Rataquenua-The Scenic Overlook of Rataquenua. Located
in the higher part of the city on the eastern hillside, from where
a beautiful panorama of the city can be appreciated, along with
the Cordillera Blanca on the eastern side of the valley, and the
opposite Cordillera Negra flanking the western side.
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TOURIST ATTRACTIONS OUTSIDE OF TOWN |
Aguas
Termales de Monterrey- The Thermal Hot Springs and Baths
of Monterrey Lying at an altitude of 2073 meters above sea level,
it is located 7 km. distant from Huaraz –a mere 5 minute car
drive. It is located within the grounds of the sprawling Hotel Monterrey,
the traditional staging and launching point for all major climbing
expeditions as well as their natural and final conclusion. There
are several large pools of varying temperature as well as individual
private thermal baths, The surrounding scenery is beautiful beyond
description and the waters themselves are thermo-medicinal, with
strong sulphurous and general mineral content and most highly recommended
–as well as proven and effectively validated - for rheumatic
and overall muscular, articulation and bone related afflictions.
Lagunas
de Llanganuco- The Lakes of Llanganuco these two beautiful
lakes are situated in a glacial valley which, although encased and
surrounded by high mountains, is neither narrow nor cramped. The
lakes are flanked on either side by two of the greatest colossus
among the “heavyweight class” of major mountains of
the
Cordillera
Blanca: on the left, or northern, side rise the vertical
granite walls of Huandoy, with four summits, the highest peaking
at 6500 meters. On the right, or southern, shores of the lake, loom
the base walls of the lower of the two summits of Huascarán
which at 6768 meters of altitude is the highest summit of Peru and
the third highest in the western Hemisphere. But straight ahead,
facing eastward and few kilometers away a cirque of slightly lower
(6,000 meter) but no less formidable mountain peaks closes the valley
and connect the two massifs. These lesser peaks have names which
have become legendary in the history of epic mountaineering: Huandoy
East, Pisco, the inexpugnable man-eating Chacraraju, the lesser
Yanapakcha and the thinly fluted razor-ridged Chopicalqui, almost
an extension from the Huascarán massif but, rising at an
altitude of 6300 meters is his own master.
The
lakes of Llanganuco, however, while an integral part of
this marvelous setting, represent the balancing counterpoint of
peaceful harmony in nature in contrast to the somewhat disquieting
company of these glacial titans whose melted icy flesh actually
feeds the cool turquoise waters below. This entire, almost otherworldly
realm, by the way, bears the name of “Huascarán Biosphere
Reserve” (see below). Down here by these lakes, life abounds.
The first of the two lakes, the one closest to the valley entrance
is called Chinancocha (the feminine lake); around its shores there
are luxuriant woods of gnarly Queñual (Polylepis) trees with
bark composed of myriad paper thin layers. Various members of the
Heath and Heather family (Erycaceae) are likewise here and there,
as are also the emblematic flowering plant of this cordillera, the
Blue Andean Lupine. Various sorts of ducks and allies paddle about,
butterflies flutter and curious hummingbirds look at one straight
in the eye. Some distance beyond, the second lake appears in view.
This, not unexpectedly, is named Orconcocha (the male lake). It
is smaller and more elongated in shape and the rise in altitude
(just over 50 meters) though slight, has brought about some marked
differences. There are fewer if any Queñual woods, the texture
of the ground feels more like the hard rubbery tough tundra of the
highlands. Likewise, the color and consistency of the water has
changed. While that of the lower lake is blue and limpid, this one
is a lot greener and turbid. The reason for that, of course is that
the water of the lower lake has undergone a great deal of filtration
as it precipitates, in the form of many small waterfalls, from the
first lake higher up, divorcing itself of much of the mineral and
alkaline matter present in the upper lake. One key indication is
the presence of life. Fish live in the lower feminine lake. The
do not, or cannot, in the upper greener one. The pH factor is not
yet quite right.
Finally, and certainly the most immediately perceptive difference,
is the temperature. In the upper lake one is already at 3850 meters
of altitude, and a brisk breeze blows, unhindered by queñual
trees and heather.
Callejón
de Huaylas- This is the popular name for the 200 km. long
valley along the center of which the Santa River flows due northward
to eventually make an abrupt left hand turn and descend to the Pacific
Ocean. The valley lies somewhat hemmed in –although wide enough
in various places for adequate human habitation- between the Cordillera
Blanca on the east and the Cordillera Negra on the west. On the
southern end, at the head of the valley, lies the Lake of Cono Cocha,
origin and main source of water for the Santa River, although its
volume and course become greatly augmented by the numerous tributary
streams which rush down from the glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca.
Strung out along the river banks is a rosary of picturesque cities,
towns and villages, the more prominent of these being Recuay, Huaraz,
Carhuáz, Yungay and Caraz. In a tragically ironic fashion,
the extreme proximity and verticality of the high mountains to the
town, which provide a great part of their appeal and attraction,
have also at times proved to be their undoing. For in the two great
earthquakes which have hit the Huaraz-Callejón the Huaylas
area in the last half century, what has actually taken the lives
of tens of thousands of people has not been the quake itself, but
rather the huge masses of ice and rocks which have become suddenly
dislodged from the mountains thousands of meters above and plunge
so rapidly into the valley bottom, enlarging their mass as they
fall, that within few minutes they raze and sweep entire towns and
villages, burying them or simply smashing them to bits, without
allowing enough time for the inhabitants to flee.
Recuay,
A town 25 km. south of Huaraz, at an altitude of 3400 meters above
sea level and once the seat of an ancient post-Chavin Culture. The
archaeological remains of that moment in the past are called Pueblo
Viejo. The inhabitants of present day Recuay are good natured, simple,
hospitable, hard working people dedicated to agriculture and mining.
Recuay is one of the more traditional towns in the valley and still
preserves much of its colonial style, with vintage somewhat dilapidated
spacious rambling centenary houses intermingled among the more modest
homes of the country folk, with their mud walls and straw or tiled
roofing.
Carhuáz,
Situated at an altitude of 2,650 meters above sea level and 34 km.
north of Huaraz. This is a traditional small city, built in Mestizo
style. It possesses an ample Plaza de Armas and a modern Civic Center.
Also facing the Plaza is the Sanctuary of the Virgen de las Mercedes,
whose festivity is celebrated on September 24th.
Yungay,
Lies at an altitude of 2,500 meters and 55 km. north of Huaraz,
at the foot of the Nevado Huascarán. The original town was
buried under tons of mud and debris when a section of the mountain
avalanched during the earthquake of May 31st, 1979. The new town
is built further north, out of harm’s way.
Caraz,
At an altitude of 2,285 meters and a distance of 67 km. from Huaraz.
It is a picturesque town that still holds some of the charm characteristic
of the old colonial Sierra towns. It is surrounded by beautiful
landscape, dotted with cultivated fields and flowering carnations.
In the vicinity of Caraz lies the snow capped peak of
Alpamayo
(5,947 meters above sea level),
which was awarded the title of “Most Beautiful Mountain in
the World” in the “Beautiful Scenarios of the World”
Contest held in Munich, Germany in 1966.
Museo
Amauta de Arte Ancashino, Located in the third block of
Avenida Noé Bazán in Caraz. It consists of one showroom
room with wall niches exhibiting garments and local apparel dating
from 100 years ago.Parque Nacional
Huascarán-Huascarán
National Park Comprises an area of 340,000 hectares of
the Cordillera Blanca including the highest peak in Peru, Huascarán
(see above). It can be reached by car from Huaraz in 2 hours. It
was declared a National Park by the Peruvian government and World
Patrimony of Humanity in 1987.
Complejo
Arqueológico de Chavín – The Archaeological
Complex of Chavín at a distance of 110 km. from Huaraz and
3_ hours of driving time, is located the archaeological complex
of Chavin, considered as the center and main seat of power of the
Chavin culture , which holds such a prominent position in the history
of ancient Peru. The site was discovered by the prominent Peruvian
Archaeologist Julio C. Tello, in the year 1919. It was proclaimed
World Cultural Patrimony by UNESCO in 1985.The site of Chavin is
only partly excavated and suffered a very destructive flooding in
the mid 1950’s. Nevertheless, there are several notable architectural
features. The central structure is known as the Temple. The base
of this structure is rectangular and its shape is that of a truncated
pyramid. It is built of large symmetrical blocks of dressed and
polished stone, fitted together and secured in place by means of
wedges and grafts made of the same cut and dressed stone, further
reinforced in places with stone mortar. The overall structure consists
of several overlapping as well as contiguous structures. Inside
the principal of these, the Templo Viejo, there is a labyrinth of
galleries some leading nowhere in particular or blocked by accumulated
debris, some converging on given points. The main gallery eventually
leads to an enclosed terminal point wherein lies one of the most
remarkable stone sculptures known. It is called “El lanzón”
which literally translates as “the Large Lance or Spear”
it consists of one solid tall and elongated (4.60 meters high) block
of granite, generally triangular in shape ending in a fine pointed
finish, the bottom being interred into the floor. The rest of the
triangular stone is carved, or rather incised, with a remarkable
figure exhibiting the aforementioned zoo-anthropomorphic attributes
of human, feline (jaguar), falcon (or bird of prey) and reptile
(serpent) combined in a very elaborate and carefully worked style.
This sophistication is further exemplified by the way in which the
center of the creature’s body runs down the apex of the triangle
in such manner that the eyes and facial features are equally distributed
along each of the two sides of the triangle, as are the fanged mouth,
clawed hands etc., thus successfully imparting a tri-dimensional
lifelike character to it. It possesses profile as well as anterior
and posterior surfaces.
All these galleries are formed of dressed and coursed stone slabs
and ashlars, some with bas relief or incised designs of similar
nature. There are evidences that some may have been painted at one
time, and others may have borne a layer of stucco and paint as well.
The ceilings are also formed of massive stone slabs, carefully fitted
and distributed. Here again, a fairly advanced knowledge of architectural
engineering is evident, since this main gallery lies at the ground
level and above this level rise another three which basically consist
of mud and rock filled structures of considerable weight. The initial
and oldest layer of this structure has been dated to 1200 B.C. Other
galleries exist, bearing colorful names such as Campamento, Offerings,
El Loco (the Madman), the stairways, the Labyrinths, the Gallery
of the Captives (Prisoners), etc. The outer sections of this complex
include large stone heads embedded into the walls showing a variety
of expressions, sunken courtyards, evidences of aqueducts and numerous
finely carved, engraved, bas relief and recessed bas relief stellar
and stones scattered about like pieces of a gigantic puzzle.
Willcahuain,
An archaeological site located 7 km. north of Huaraz, 35 minutes
by car, or 3 hours of pleasant hiking through groves of eucalyptus.
This is again considered to be a temple composed of super imposed
platforms, built entirely of stone, the inside possesses a network
of passageways, many completely obstructed. It is not; however,
of Chavin origin or antiquity, it represents an example of “Provincial
Wari” architecture and presence in this region. The Wari were
a dominant culture which achieved paramount through most of Peru
around 700- 1000 A.D. and their heartland lay far south in present
day Ayacucho. The structure in discussion is dated at approximately
900 A.D.
Waullac,
another Wari archaeological site consisting of 5 stone compartments
built atop each other. It is situated 2 km away from Huaraz, 5 minutes
by motor transport and 20 minutes’ hiking.
Tumshukaico, An archaeological site also situated very close to
Huaraz. It seems to have at one time been a very large temple complex
built of large dressed stones. It exact chronology and origin has
not yet been ascertained.
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| CLIMATE,
WEATHER AND SEASONAL INFORMATION |
The
Dry Season lasts from May until October. The climate is dry,
the skies are clear –particularly between June and August. In
April-May, as the rainy season nears its end, the skies are
intermittently cloudy and the many flowering plants blossom throughout
the landscape. The rainy season lasts from November until March.
The height of the tourist season is during the festivities of Holy Week,
Independence Day, and Andean Mountaineering Week (Semana del Andinismo)
– (see below for details). Up |
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| ROUTES
AND MEANS OF ACCESS |
OVERLAND:
LIMA: North along the Panamerican highway from Lima (Panamericana
Norte) until reaching Pativilca. Shortly afterward the turn off
to Huaraz-Callejón de Huaylas (on the right hand side) appears.
From there, approximately 8 hours of travel to Huaraz.
BY
AIR:
Huaraz has a small airport that services aero taxi and light aircraft.
Prearranged charter flights are available. Up
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| TYPICAL
AND LOCAL CUISINE |
Due
to the marked variety in climate and environments, Ancash lays claim
to a very diversified cuisine, guaranteed to satisfy a wide diversity
of tastes. In the coastal region of Ancash there are the usual Cebiche
and other Fish and Seafood based dishes. In the Highlands (Sierra),
the most popular and acclaimed specialties are: Picante de Cuy al
Estilo Huaracino (Hot Spiced Guinea Pig á la Huaracina): Jaca-Chasqui
(a version of the previous served in soup form); Papa-Chasqui –
a soup composed of potatoes, milk and fresh cheese; Yuca-Shupe (a
soup carefully devoid of fats or greases served on the morning after
a night of celebration and party; Pecan-Caldo -Sheep’s head
soup; Huallpa-Chasqui – chicken soup with crushed nuts and almonds.
A variety of fruit punches –according to season- are recommended
as beverages. Up |
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| CALENDAR
O FESTIVITIES AND TOURIST EVENTS |
January
18th to 21st Caraz celebrates the Festivity of the Virgen
de Chiquinguirá, dancing, eating and drinking in honor of
their Patroness.
February 2nd The Province of Aija honors the Virgen
de la Candelaria with the concourse of dancers in popular costumes
and the sampling of local gastronomic specialties.
February
Carnival Festivities. In Huaraz and other districts these
are celebrated with great pomposity and folkloric
events, dances, eating and great display of elaborate local dress
and apparel.
Semana
Santa (Holy Week) Several days with acts and expressions
commemorating the sacrifice of Christ for the Salvation of humanity.
In Huir, there are processions during the entire week, with a different
Image brought out and paraded every day. In Lujuriaba, the entire
population congregates on Palm Sunday, having spent the previous
days foraging in the countryside gathering palm leaves which are
blessed and used in the processions. In Carduza, the population
dons all-black clothing and observes mourning on Maundy Thursday
(Jueves Santo) and Good Friday (Viernes Santo). In Huasa there is
a concentration and gathering of all Sacred Images and general reclusion.
On Good Friday (Viernes Santo) in Corongo, the population retires
to their homes and performs penitence.
May
3rd The Anniversary of the Señor de la Soledad,
Patron of earth tremors, earthquakes and calamities. In Huasa, around
this date, folks from all surrounding districts and homesteads begin
arriving, bringing with them small local music bands with quenas
(Andean notched flutes) and bombos (bass drums), they also bear
huge wax candles, called cirios, which they have made and will carry
in procession.
First
Week of July Andean Mountaineering Week. Skiing and Climbing
events and contests.
June
8th The Province of Raymondi organized the festivity of
the Virgen Purísima, including bull fights, typical dances
and livestock markets; reenacting of Inca festivities and rituals
also take place.
June
29th In Corongo the Festivity of San Pedro, Patron Saint
of the Province, is held amidst a variety of activities including
folkloric performances, eating and drinking.
Chimbote Jubilee Week: This event takes place during the last week
of June, with a variety of tourism, cultural, sporting and social
activities, with the concourse of national and foreign performing
artists. On June 29th, the image of San Pedro, Patron of the City,
is paraded in procession through the docks and port area aboard
a fishing boat.
July 1st The Adventure Sports Festival takes place
in the Cordillera Blanca
July
8th Festivity of Santa Isabel (Saint Elizabeth). This is
one of the most lavish festivities in the Callejón de Huaylas,
it includes the participation of numerous musical groups and bands,
as well as many dance groups and many guests, all of whom celebrate
to the fullest during night and day.
July 25th The festivity of the Apostle Santiago
in the province of Aija. This is a traditionally popular religious
act, in which the local folk practice the “Yuca –canga”
(the gifting of the yuca).
July
28th The Anniversary of the Proclamation of Peruvian Independence
from Spain by General José de San Martín in Lima on
July 28th, 1821. National holiday, numerous Civic and commemorative
events throughout the nation.
August
15th Festivity of the Virgen de la Asunción (Assumption),
observed with particular care in the provinces of Huari, Raymondi
and Huaylas and celebrated in the fields and hills. This is a traditional
Pan-Andean ritualistic celebration that also marks the start of
the maize planting season. In Huari, furthermore, there are bullfights,
cock fights and horse racing competitions called “Carrera
de Cintas” (Ribbon Race”). In this local version of
a timeless contest, men on horseback strive and compete to capture,
or retrieve, by means of a shaft or long rod, a circular band or
ribbon bearing the name of their sweethearts.
August
20th The Annual Regional fair of the Province of Santa,
in which the population of the province sells and exhibits their
products and produce.
August
30th The “Gran Aniversario de la Fundación
de la Provincia de Aija” (Great Anniversary of the Founding
of the province of Aicha). Natives of the area residents in other
parts of the country return to their birthplace to celebrate their
homeland in proper fashion. At the same time, in Chiquián,
Province of Bolognesi, the celebration of Santa Rosa takes place.
During an entire week there is dance and song, bullfights and lots
of football.
September
14th Festivity of the Exaltation of the Cross
November
1st and 2nd The Festivity of Día de Todos los Santos
and Día de Todos los Difuntos (All Saint’s day and
All Soul’s day). Families and friends gather in the various
cemeteries in the department of Ancash in remembrance of their deceased
loved ones. They come accompanied by musicians and bearing food
and drink which they consume until dawn of the next day. Up
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