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HUARAZ

*Location, Altitude, Area and Population
*Brief Historical Outline
*Tourist Attractions
*Climate, Weather and Seasonal Information
*Routes and Means of Access
*Typical and Local Cuisine
*Calendar of Festivities and Tourist Events Conventional

LOCATION, ALTITUDE, AREA AND POPULATION
The Department of Ancash is located in the northwestern part of Peru. It possesses the distinctive feature of comprising within its boundaries examples of virtually every ecological environment known. Its western flank is washed by the waters of the Pacific Ocean. From there, progressing eastward, it has sections of desert, arid western slope foothills and highlands, green pastured interandean valleys and maize growing areas, highland potato cultivation zones, some of the highest snowcapped mountains in the western hemisphere and on the other side of those, eastern slope midlands leading into highland jungles and cloud forests of the headwaters of the Amazon basin. The area of Ancash is 36,308 km2 in size and it has a population of 983,500 inhabitants. The departmental capital is the city of Huaraz, situated at 3100 meter of altitude above sea level and 408 kilometers away from Lima. On its Pacific Ocean shore lies the port of Chimbote, considered one of the largest fishing ports in the world and main iron and steel industry center of Peru. Up

 

HISTORICAL OUTLINE

The historical roots of the region of Ancash go very deeply and a long way back. One of oldest and culturally most influential civilizations in the Western Hemisphere –the Chavin- flourished there between 1500 B.C. and 100 B.C. and established what is conventionally denominated as the “Early Cultural Horizon” of Peruvian and Andean history. This was essentially a religious and theocratic society, based on the cult of a zoo-anthropomorphic deity with human, feline, falcon and serpent characteristics. Although a fierce and aggressive strain is consistently present in the social and cultural expressions of this culture, the quality and workmanship of its lithic sculpture and ceramics reached a point barely equaled and seldom surpassed by later, subsequent, cultures. The last vestiges of the Chavin fade around the beginnings of the present era and certainly none other than inanimate remains were left in the region by the time the Incas took hold of it in the XV century. Nevertheless, the local inhabitants, by then called Huaylas and Conchucos, though very distantly related to Chavin, resisted the Incas with the same warlike and fierce spirit of their ancestors.
The advent of the Spanish conquest led to forays of plunder and destruction in search of gold and treasure in the region. These were also met with fierce resistance on the part of the Huaylas and Conchucos regardless of the force and atrocities committed by Francisco Pizarro and his host; and the Conquistadors suffered numerous casualties The invaders did not succeed in establishing permanent settlements and land holdings for a long time, this being one of the reasons that no precise date for the founding of the Capital city of Huaraz is actually known, although there are conflicting views on the subject. During the Colonial era, Huaraz did not hold any position of importance as did many of the other cities in Peru, As a result of this there are virtually no traces of colonial Spanish architecture in evidence. Ancash did, however, take very active participation in the Peruvian Wars of Independence from Spain and many of the inhabitants of the region enrolled and fought in the armies of Simón Bolivar in the second and final liberation of Peru in 1824 (following the first liberation by José de San Martín in 1821). In present times, the architecture of Huaraz is quite modern in style and appearance, with tall buildings, wide avenues and suburban neighborhoods. Much of this, of course, is due to the successive reconstruction undergone by the city after the devastating earthquakes of 1950 and 1970, the latter exacting a toll of 30,000 lives. The city, and region, managed to overcome these disasters and become again the administrative center and hub of a large area of influence in Northern Peru.
In any case, whatever Huaraz may lack in terms of vintage architecture is more than generously made up for by its natural setting, lying as it does in the very heart of one of the highest ranges among the many that make up the Andes, Longest Chain of Mountains in the World and, along with the Himalaya, the Greatest. Up

 

TOURÍST ATTRACTIONS
IN-TOWN ATTRACTIONS

Plaza de Armas de Huaraz- The Main Plaza of Huaraz around this Main square and radiating from it is where the resurgence of the several times devastated city took place. In present times, modern buildings and residential homes predominate completely over any remnants of the old ample colonial architecture. The immediate background of the Plaza de Armas is occupied by the Municipal Palace. But the major perspective is absolutely dominated, if not monopolized, by the close proximity of a 50 kilometer long successive alignment of colossal snow covered mountain peaks, the majority of which rise above 6,000 meters of altitude, known as the Cordillera Blanca. A mere 20 kilometers away and visible from anywhere in the city, rises the greatest of them all: 6,768 meter high Huascarán, highest mountain summit in Peru and third tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere. Seldom, anywhere in the world, are such massive peaks so densely concentrated, found looming over a large urban center as is the case in Huaraz. The presence and closeness of these seems to form an integral part of the architecture of the city as well.

Museo Regional de Huaraz-Huaraz Regional Museum. Situated in the Civic Center (Plaza de Armas), Contains valuable collections of archaeological ceramics and monoliths from the various ancient cultures that flourished in the region.

Santuario del Señor de la Soledad- (Sanctuary of the Señor of Solitude) Located in the neighborhood of La Soledad, Church of the Patron Saint of the City of Huaraz.

Mirador de Rataquenua-The Scenic Overlook of Rataquenua. Located in the higher part of the city on the eastern hillside, from where a beautiful panorama of the city can be appreciated, along with the Cordillera Blanca on the eastern side of the valley, and the opposite Cordillera Negra flanking the western side.

A TOURIST ATTRACTIONS OUTSIDE OF TOWN

Aguas Termales de Monterrey- The Thermal Hot Springs and Baths of Monterrey Lying at an altitude of 2073 meters above sea level, it is located 7 km. distant from Huaraz –a mere 5 minute car drive. It is located within the grounds of the sprawling Hotel Monterrey, the traditional staging and launching point for all major climbing expeditions as well as their natural and final conclusion. There are several large pools of varying temperature as well as individual private thermal baths, The surrounding scenery is beautiful beyond description and the waters themselves are thermo-medicinal, with strong sulphurous and general mineral content and most highly recommended –as well as proven and effectively validated - for rheumatic and overall muscular, articulation and bone related afflictions.

Lagunas de Llanganuco- The Lakes of Llanganuco these two beautiful lakes are situated in a glacial valley which, although encased and surrounded by high mountains, is neither narrow nor cramped. The lakes are flanked on either side by two of the greatest colossus among the “heavyweight class” of major mountains of the

Cordillera Blanca: on the left, or northern, side rise the vertical granite walls of Huandoy, with four summits, the highest peaking at 6500 meters. On the right, or southern, shores of the lake, loom the base walls of the lower of the two summits of Huascarán which at 6768 meters of altitude is the highest summit of Peru and the third highest in the western Hemisphere. But straight ahead, facing eastward and few kilometers away a cirque of slightly lower (6,000 meter) but no less formidable mountain peaks closes the valley and connect the two massifs. These lesser peaks have names which have become legendary in the history of epic mountaineering: Huandoy East, Pisco, the inexpugnable man-eating Chacraraju, the lesser Yanapakcha and the thinly fluted razor-ridged Chopicalqui, almost an extension from the Huascarán massif but, rising at an altitude of 6300 meters is his own master.

The lakes of Llanganuco, however, while an integral part of this marvelous setting, represent the balancing counterpoint of peaceful harmony in nature in contrast to the somewhat disquieting company of these glacial titans whose melted icy flesh actually feeds the cool turquoise waters below. This entire, almost otherworldly realm, by the way, bears the name of “Huascarán Biosphere Reserve” (see below). Down here by these lakes, life abounds. The first of the two lakes, the one closest to the valley entrance is called Chinancocha (the feminine lake); around its shores there are luxuriant woods of gnarly Queñual (Polylepis) trees with bark composed of myriad paper thin layers. Various members of the Heath and Heather family (Erycaceae) are likewise here and there, as are also the emblematic flowering plant of this cordillera, the Blue Andean Lupine. Various sorts of ducks and allies paddle about, butterflies flutter and curious hummingbirds look at one straight in the eye. Some distance beyond, the second lake appears in view. This, not unexpectedly, is named Orconcocha (the male lake). It is smaller and more elongated in shape and the rise in altitude (just over 50 meters) though slight, has brought about some marked differences. There are fewer if any Queñual woods, the texture of the ground feels more like the hard rubbery tough tundra of the highlands. Likewise, the color and consistency of the water has changed. While that of the lower lake is blue and limpid, this one is a lot greener and turbid. The reason for that, of course is that the water of the lower lake has undergone a great deal of filtration as it precipitates, in the form of many small waterfalls, from the first lake higher up, divorcing itself of much of the mineral and alkaline matter present in the upper lake. One key indication is the presence of life. Fish live in the lower feminine lake. The do not, or cannot, in the upper greener one. The pH factor is not yet quite right.
Finally, and certainly the most immediately perceptive difference, is the temperature. In the upper lake one is already at 3850 meters of altitude, and a brisk breeze blows, unhindered by queñual trees and heather.

Callejón de Huaylas- This is the popular name for the 200 km. long valley along the center of which the Santa River flows due northward to eventually make an abrupt left hand turn and descend to the Pacific Ocean. The valley lies somewhat hemmed in –although wide enough in various places for adequate human habitation- between the Cordillera Blanca on the east and the Cordillera Negra on the west. On the southern end, at the head of the valley, lies the Lake of Cono Cocha, origin and main source of water for the Santa River, although its volume and course become greatly augmented by the numerous tributary streams which rush down from the glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca. Strung out along the river banks is a rosary of picturesque cities, towns and villages, the more prominent of these being Recuay, Huaraz, Carhuáz, Yungay and Caraz. In a tragically ironic fashion, the extreme proximity and verticality of the high mountains to the town, which provide a great part of their appeal and attraction, have also at times proved to be their undoing. For in the two great earthquakes which have hit the Huaraz-Callejón the Huaylas area in the last half century, what has actually taken the lives of tens of thousands of people has not been the quake itself, but rather the huge masses of ice and rocks which have become suddenly dislodged from the mountains thousands of meters above and plunge so rapidly into the valley bottom, enlarging their mass as they fall, that within few minutes they raze and sweep entire towns and villages, burying them or simply smashing them to bits, without allowing enough time for the inhabitants to flee.

Recuay, A town 25 km. south of Huaraz, at an altitude of 3400 meters above sea level and once the seat of an ancient post-Chavin Culture. The archaeological remains of that moment in the past are called Pueblo Viejo. The inhabitants of present day Recuay are good natured, simple, hospitable, hard working people dedicated to agriculture and mining. Recuay is one of the more traditional towns in the valley and still preserves much of its colonial style, with vintage somewhat dilapidated spacious rambling centenary houses intermingled among the more modest homes of the country folk, with their mud walls and straw or tiled roofing.

Carhuáz, Situated at an altitude of 2,650 meters above sea level and 34 km. north of Huaraz. This is a traditional small city, built in Mestizo style. It possesses an ample Plaza de Armas and a modern Civic Center. Also facing the Plaza is the Sanctuary of the Virgen de las Mercedes, whose festivity is celebrated on September 24th.

Yungay, Lies at an altitude of 2,500 meters and 55 km. north of Huaraz, at the foot of the Nevado Huascarán. The original town was buried under tons of mud and debris when a section of the mountain avalanched during the earthquake of May 31st, 1979. The new town is built further north, out of harm’s way.

Caraz, At an altitude of 2,285 meters and a distance of 67 km. from Huaraz. It is a picturesque town that still holds some of the charm characteristic of the old colonial Sierra towns. It is surrounded by beautiful landscape, dotted with cultivated fields and flowering carnations. In the vicinity of Caraz lies the snow capped peak of

Alpamayo (5,947 meters above sea level), which was awarded the title of “Most Beautiful Mountain in the World” in the “Beautiful Scenarios of the World” Contest held in Munich, Germany in 1966.

Museo Amauta de Arte Ancashino, Located in the third block of Avenida Noé Bazán in Caraz. It consists of one showroom room with wall niches exhibiting garments and local apparel dating from 100 years ago.Parque Nacional

Huascarán-Huascarán National Park Comprises an area of 340,000 hectares of the Cordillera Blanca including the highest peak in Peru, Huascarán (see above). It can be reached by car from Huaraz in 2 hours. It was declared a National Park by the Peruvian government and World Patrimony of Humanity in 1987.

Complejo Arqueológico de Chavín – The Archaeological Complex of Chavín at a distance of 110 km. from Huaraz and 3_ hours of driving time, is located the archaeological complex of Chavin, considered as the center and main seat of power of the Chavin culture , which holds such a prominent position in the history of ancient Peru. The site was discovered by the prominent Peruvian Archaeologist Julio C. Tello, in the year 1919. It was proclaimed World Cultural Patrimony by UNESCO in 1985.The site of Chavin is only partly excavated and suffered a very destructive flooding in the mid 1950’s. Nevertheless, there are several notable architectural features. The central structure is known as the Temple. The base of this structure is rectangular and its shape is that of a truncated pyramid. It is built of large symmetrical blocks of dressed and polished stone, fitted together and secured in place by means of wedges and grafts made of the same cut and dressed stone, further reinforced in places with stone mortar. The overall structure consists of several overlapping as well as contiguous structures. Inside the principal of these, the Templo Viejo, there is a labyrinth of galleries some leading nowhere in particular or blocked by accumulated debris, some converging on given points. The main gallery eventually leads to an enclosed terminal point wherein lies one of the most remarkable stone sculptures known. It is called “El lanzón” which literally translates as “the Large Lance or Spear” it consists of one solid tall and elongated (4.60 meters high) block of granite, generally triangular in shape ending in a fine pointed finish, the bottom being interred into the floor. The rest of the triangular stone is carved, or rather incised, with a remarkable figure exhibiting the aforementioned zoo-anthropomorphic attributes of human, feline (jaguar), falcon (or bird of prey) and reptile (serpent) combined in a very elaborate and carefully worked style. This sophistication is further exemplified by the way in which the center of the creature’s body runs down the apex of the triangle in such manner that the eyes and facial features are equally distributed along each of the two sides of the triangle, as are the fanged mouth, clawed hands etc., thus successfully imparting a tri-dimensional lifelike character to it. It possesses profile as well as anterior and posterior surfaces.
All these galleries are formed of dressed and coursed stone slabs and ashlars, some with bas relief or incised designs of similar nature. There are evidences that some may have been painted at one time, and others may have borne a layer of stucco and paint as well. The ceilings are also formed of massive stone slabs, carefully fitted and distributed. Here again, a fairly advanced knowledge of architectural engineering is evident, since this main gallery lies at the ground level and above this level rise another three which basically consist of mud and rock filled structures of considerable weight. The initial and oldest layer of this structure has been dated to 1200 B.C. Other galleries exist, bearing colorful names such as Campamento, Offerings, El Loco (the Madman), the stairways, the Labyrinths, the Gallery of the Captives (Prisoners), etc. The outer sections of this complex include large stone heads embedded into the walls showing a variety of expressions, sunken courtyards, evidences of aqueducts and numerous finely carved, engraved, bas relief and recessed bas relief stellar and stones scattered about like pieces of a gigantic puzzle.

Willcahuain, An archaeological site located 7 km. north of Huaraz, 35 minutes by car, or 3 hours of pleasant hiking through groves of eucalyptus. This is again considered to be a temple composed of super imposed platforms, built entirely of stone, the inside possesses a network of passageways, many completely obstructed. It is not; however, of Chavin origin or antiquity, it represents an example of “Provincial Wari” architecture and presence in this region. The Wari were a dominant culture which achieved paramount through most of Peru around 700- 1000 A.D. and their heartland lay far south in present day Ayacucho. The structure in discussion is dated at approximately 900 A.D.

Waullac, another Wari archaeological site consisting of 5 stone compartments built atop each other. It is situated 2 km away from Huaraz, 5 minutes by motor transport and 20 minutes’ hiking.
Tumshukaico, An archaeological site also situated very close to Huaraz. It seems to have at one time been a very large temple complex built of large dressed stones. It exact chronology and origin has not yet been ascertained.
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CLIMATE, WEATHER AND SEASONAL INFORMATION
The Dry Season lasts from May until October. The climate is dry, the skies are clear –particularly between June and August. In April-May, as the rainy season nears its end, the skies are intermittently cloudy and the many flowering plants blossom throughout the landscape. The rainy season lasts from November until March.
The height of the tourist season is during the festivities of Holy Week, Independence Day, and Andean Mountaineering Week (Semana del Andinismo) – (see below for details). Up

ROUTES AND MEANS OF ACCESS

OVERLAND:
LIMA:
North along the Panamerican highway from Lima (Panamericana Norte) until reaching Pativilca. Shortly afterward the turn off to Huaraz-Callejón de Huaylas (on the right hand side) appears. From there, approximately 8 hours of travel to Huaraz.

BY AIR:
Huaraz has a small airport that services aero taxi and light aircraft. Prearranged charter flights are available.
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TYPICAL AND LOCAL CUISINE
Due to the marked variety in climate and environments, Ancash lays claim to a very diversified cuisine, guaranteed to satisfy a wide diversity of tastes. In the coastal region of Ancash there are the usual Cebiche and other Fish and Seafood based dishes. In the Highlands (Sierra), the most popular and acclaimed specialties are: Picante de Cuy al Estilo Huaracino (Hot Spiced Guinea Pig á la Huaracina): Jaca-Chasqui (a version of the previous served in soup form); Papa-Chasqui – a soup composed of potatoes, milk and fresh cheese; Yuca-Shupe (a soup carefully devoid of fats or greases served on the morning after a night of celebration and party; Pecan-Caldo -Sheep’s head soup; Huallpa-Chasqui – chicken soup with crushed nuts and almonds. A variety of fruit punches –according to season- are recommended as beverages. Up

 

CALENDAR O FESTIVITIES AND TOURIST EVENTS

January 18th to 21st Caraz celebrates the Festivity of the Virgen de Chiquinguirá, dancing, eating and drinking in honor of their Patroness.


February 2nd The Province of Aija honors the Virgen de la Candelaria with the concourse of dancers in popular costumes and the sampling of local gastronomic specialties.

February Carnival Festivities. In Huaraz and other districts these are celebrated with great pomposity and folkloric
events, dances, eating and great display of elaborate local dress and apparel.

Semana Santa (Holy Week) Several days with acts and expressions commemorating the sacrifice of Christ for the Salvation of humanity. In Huir, there are processions during the entire week, with a different Image brought out and paraded every day. In Lujuriaba, the entire population congregates on Palm Sunday, having spent the previous days foraging in the countryside gathering palm leaves which are blessed and used in the processions. In Carduza, the population dons all-black clothing and observes mourning on Maundy Thursday (Jueves Santo) and Good Friday (Viernes Santo). In Huasa there is a concentration and gathering of all Sacred Images and general reclusion. On Good Friday (Viernes Santo) in Corongo, the population retires to their homes and performs penitence.

May 3rd The Anniversary of the Señor de la Soledad, Patron of earth tremors, earthquakes and calamities. In Huasa, around this date, folks from all surrounding districts and homesteads begin arriving, bringing with them small local music bands with quenas (Andean notched flutes) and bombos (bass drums), they also bear huge wax candles, called cirios, which they have made and will carry in procession.

First Week of July Andean Mountaineering Week. Skiing and Climbing events and contests.

June 8th The Province of Raymondi organized the festivity of the Virgen Purísima, including bull fights, typical dances and livestock markets; reenacting of Inca festivities and rituals also take place.

June 29th In Corongo the Festivity of San Pedro, Patron Saint of the Province, is held amidst a variety of activities including folkloric performances, eating and drinking.
Chimbote Jubilee Week: This event takes place during the last week of June, with a variety of tourism, cultural, sporting and social activities, with the concourse of national and foreign performing artists. On June 29th, the image of San Pedro, Patron of the City, is paraded in procession through the docks and port area aboard a fishing boat.
July 1st The Adventure Sports Festival takes place in the Cordillera Blanca

July 8th Festivity of Santa Isabel (Saint Elizabeth). This is one of the most lavish festivities in the Callejón de Huaylas, it includes the participation of numerous musical groups and bands, as well as many dance groups and many guests, all of whom celebrate to the fullest during night and day.
July 25th The festivity of the Apostle Santiago in the province of Aija. This is a traditionally popular religious act, in which the local folk practice the “Yuca –canga” (the gifting of the yuca).

July 28th The Anniversary of the Proclamation of Peruvian Independence from Spain by General José de San Martín in Lima on July 28th, 1821. National holiday, numerous Civic and commemorative events throughout the nation.

August 15th Festivity of the Virgen de la Asunción (Assumption), observed with particular care in the provinces of Huari, Raymondi and Huaylas and celebrated in the fields and hills. This is a traditional Pan-Andean ritualistic celebration that also marks the start of the maize planting season. In Huari, furthermore, there are bullfights, cock fights and horse racing competitions called “Carrera de Cintas” (Ribbon Race”). In this local version of a timeless contest, men on horseback strive and compete to capture, or retrieve, by means of a shaft or long rod, a circular band or ribbon bearing the name of their sweethearts.

August 20th The Annual Regional fair of the Province of Santa, in which the population of the province sells and exhibits their products and produce.

August 30th The “Gran Aniversario de la Fundación de la Provincia de Aija” (Great Anniversary of the Founding of the province of Aicha). Natives of the area residents in other parts of the country return to their birthplace to celebrate their homeland in proper fashion. At the same time, in Chiquián, Province of Bolognesi, the celebration of Santa Rosa takes place. During an entire week there is dance and song, bullfights and lots of football.

September 14th Festivity of the Exaltation of the Cross

November 1st and 2nd The Festivity of Día de Todos los Santos and Día de Todos los Difuntos (All Saint’s day and All Soul’s day). Families and friends gather in the various cemeteries in the department of Ancash in remembrance of their deceased loved ones. They come accompanied by musicians and bearing food and drink which they consume until dawn of the next day. Up

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