Arequipa

The department of Arequipa is situated in the southwestern area of Peru. On the north, it borders with the departments of Ica, Ayacucho and Apurimac; on the east, with Cusco and Puno; on the south with Moquegua; and on the west with the Pacific Ocean. Its territory includes coastal and highland areas. It has an area of 63,399 km2 and a population of 948,390 people. The departmental capital is the city of Arequipa, which lies at an altitude of 2,335 meters above sea level and possesses an urban population of 680,500 people. One of the largest cities in Peru, Arequipa is also among the most beautiful, famed for its elegant architecture built mainly from white volcanic pumice (hence its nickname of “the White City”) and lovely and verdant countryside.

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The region possesses ancient historical roots. There are human remains dating 8,000 years back to the late Paleolithic period. Evidence of Paleolithic man is found in the areas of Yaramba in Pampa Colorada, and in Sumbay, in the vicinity of the El Misti Volcano. In these sites there are caves with paintings. Arequipa was never a place of origin or main seat for any of the great paramount Civilizations of Peru, such as Chavin, Nasca, Wari, Mochica or Inca. However, the influence of all of these –in varying degrees- was perceived and assimilated by the local populations, who adroitly developed crafted techniques of ceramics and textile production, as well as efficient methods of irrigation, soil management and cultivation of crops. When the Inca expansion reached this area in the XV century, they found two well-established and clearly defined ethnic groups inhabiting it, mostly in the area in and around the Colca Canyon (see below). These were the Collaguas and the Cabanas, both characterized by a very proficient level of agricultural development. The remains of their hillside terracing and well designed and built irrigation channels can be seen in their use to this very day.

he Spanish landed in Peru in 1532. On August 15th of the year 1540, the Spanish captain García Manuel Carbajal founded the Villa Hermosa de Arequipa, although a number of other historical sources ascribe the founding of the city to Francisco Pizarro, who was Carbajal’s commanding officer. Whatever the case, one year after the founding, the Habsburg King Charles of Spain (Charles I as king of Spain, Charles V as German emperor) raised it to the status of city and granted a coat of arms, which it continues to bear in present times. As a Spanish built city, with no major native or Inca presence, and of recent founding, the colonial history of Arequipa was somewhat uneventful. But from the beginning of the XIX century, the pro-independence movement led by Peruvian born Criollos of European descent became very active. Among some of the most prominent names of these men can be mentioned Juan Pablo Vizcardo y Guzmán, author of a controversial revolutionary treatise entitled “Open Letter to the Spanish Americans”, calling for secession from Spain; Francisco Javier de Luna Pizarro, president of the first Constitutional Convention in 1822; and the poet Mariano Melgar , executed by a Spanish firing squad in Humachiri. On the other hand, the pro-Spanish element in Arequipa was very strong, as was also the case in Lima. Many prominent Arequipeños fought in the Spanish army. One of the most successful and efficient generals in the Spanish army, who inflicted several defeats upon the patriots, bringing most of Bolivia and parts of northern Argentina back under temporary Spanish control, was José Manuel Goyeneche, born in Arequipa. And one of the last Spanish Governors of southern Peru, General Pio Tristán, was also from Arequipa. But once independence was fully established, the city became and remained forever faithful to Peru. Nowadays, Arequipa is the most important commercial and industrial center of southern Peru. A crossroads of railways, roads and air routes, it is also surrounded by major mining establishments. It is likewise known for its very politically independent-minded citizenry and has been the staging ground for several revolutions against the central government. In addition, several prominent political leaders and presidents of Peru come from Arequipa.

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IN-TOWN ATTRACTIONS

The Cathedral: the first XVII century religious monument in Arequipa. The original cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1844. It was restored in 1868 by Lucas Poblete, native-born arequipeño. It showcases neo-renaissance style with some French influence, constructed with local materials (white pumice, or “sillar” stone) and faces upon the north end of the Plaza de Armas.

The Church of La Merced: church and convent in the baroque style, built in the XVII century. It possesses a library from the Viceroyalty period and many valuable paintings.

The Church of San Agustín: contains a fine baroque façade with abundant ornamentation sculpted in sillar (pumice) stone. Its sacristy represents an outstanding example of modern mestizo craftsmanship.

The Church of Santo Domingo: XVII century Church, with very interesting sculpted work upon the right lateral doorway.

The Church of San Francisco: contains a library of over 20,000 volumes, a major art collection and a chapel, all classic representations of the unique Vice royal architectural pattern of the XVI century.

The monastery of Santa Catalina: Considered by many to be the most important and impressive Religious monument in Peru, it was founded in September of the year 1579 under the invocation and protection of Saint Catherine of Siena and was closed to the outside world until 1970. With an area of 20,426 m2, it has preserved virtually untouched its architectural patterns and context of the XVI and XVII centuries: narrow courtyards, gardens, passages and streets, bearing names from Spanish cities such as those of the old neighborhoods and sections of Seville and Granada. Both of its site museums exhibit priceless relics, religious ornaments, etc.

The Iglesia de La Compañía (The church of the company of Jesus or Jesuit Church): The façade of the Iglesia de la Compañía is the most notable amongst the mestizo Plateresque-style Churches. Its structure has two levels, and the pulpit displays finely carved and engraved woodwork, as does the sacristy. The monastery of la Compañía displays vaulted archways and semicircular arches with sculpted columns.

La Recoleta: franciscan convent founded in 1648 with cloisters that are a very clear example of the architecture of Arequipa of the Vice royal period. It holds a library containing some 25,000 works that date from the XVI, XVII and XVIII centuries. It also possesses an Amazonian Museum, which displays objects and memorabilia from the missionary activity carried out by their order in that area during preceeding centuries.

Casa Del Moral: Traditional XVII century manorial house. Beautiful portal and staterooms with vaulted ceilings.

Casa Tristán Del Pozo: Presently owned by the Banco Continental. A small site museum operates in it as well as a site gallery. The craftsmanship of the façade as well as that of the inner courtyard is noteworthy.

Casa de la Moneda (The Old Mint): Built in 1798 it still preserves its original characteristics due to the solidity and strength of its construction. It functioned as the Mint of Arequipa.

Casa Goyeneche: XVIII century manorial home of the Goyeneche family (see above) and currently the headquarters of the Banco Continental. It possesses ample and stately proportions as well as authentic viceroyalty period furniture.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS OUTSIDE OF TOWN
The Colca Canyon (Cañón Del Colca): located in the Province of Caylloma. It is 3,400 meters deep (over twice the depth of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado river in Arizona, U.S.A.) and, as such, is regarded as one of the greatest river canyons in the world. Here, the Colca River runs its tempestuous course. There are numerous features of tourist interest: scenic panoramic overlooks, other viewpoints where it is possible to view –and photograph- condors from a distance of few meters. The region is also famous for a remarkable series of XVI and XVII century colonial villages with impressive stone- and mortar-built churches and temples in Peru. These possess finely carved façades, portals and colonnades depicting an intricate and elaborate symbolism, a very eloquent expression of the religious and cultural synchrony that incorporates ancient Andean ritualistic symbols and imported European Christian emblems in a harmony of style and form nowhere else seen. There are also numerous remains of the great agricultural terracing and irrigation schemes of the original Collagua and Cabana inhabitants. Reaching the canyon is an adventure upon itself, traversing beyond the further sides of the Misti and Chachani volcanoes and then through the Pampa Cañahuas Vicuña reserve.

The Majes Valley (El Valle de Majes): Situated in the Province of Castilla, this remarkable site contains the petroglyphs of Toro Muerto, with some 5,000 large rocks and boulders engraved with representations of geometrical figures, as well as others depicting flora and fauna.

The Valley of the Volcanoes (El Valle de los Volcanes): Located in Andahua, at a distance of 377 kilometers from Arequipa. The panorama is truly astounding: between 80 to 100 small to medium volcanoes and volcanic cones scattered about in what can only be described as a “Lunar landscape.”

The lakes of Mejía natural sanctuary (Santuario Nacional de Lagunas de Mejía): Located on the Pacific Ocean coast. A true showcase of nature –comprising an area of 690 hectares- including a diversity of water habitats with varying degrees of salinity, marshlands, reed banks, salt deposits and aquatic grasses. As many as 157 different bird species can be distinguished.

The caves of Sumbay (Las Cuevas de Sumbay): Situated 88 km. from Arequipa. In spite of the passage of time, the inner recesses of these caves still preserve numerous and invaluable examples of cave paintings, presumably the work of late Paleolithic dwellers of the region. Painted on the walls and ceilings are representations of human figures, native Camelids (probably the proto-guanaco ancestors of the modern day Llamas, Alpacas and Vicuñas, all members of the camel family) and pumas.

The Petrified Forest of Imata (Bosque de Piedras de Imata): This is actually an extensive formation of rocks, located on the road between Arequipa and Puno, and not a forest of petrified tress. Nevertheless, this remarkable –and numerous- array of curiously twisted and deformed individual rock columns does convey a feeling of the fantastic and the bizarre.

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Arequipa, within its diverse ecological zones, possesses a great variety of climates. The coast is arid, dry, consistently sunny and hot between November and March-April (the southern summer). From May until October it is colder, generally overcast and misty, but the rise in humidity and dewy mist encourages the appearance of plant life in the otherwise arid desert. In turn, in the further eastern end of the department, the highland Alpaca pastureland and potato-producing zones bordering on Puno and Cusco, the extreme opposite is the rule. May to November is very sunny, dry and also very cold–it is the “dry” season in the tropical Andes. Whereas November to April is generally overcast with continual rains –particularly in January and February- that translate into much snow in the higher areas. However, it is also the season of planting and production of corn, potatoes and other essential staples and produces. The midland area – Arequipa city and environs- maintain a balance. The climate is more uniform, but its proximity to the coast associates it more with the coastal pattern, although it will receive an attenuated version of dry and wet according to the season.

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POVERLAND:
FROM LIMA: 1,000 kilometer drive heading south on the Panamericana Highway (14 hours).
AIR TRAVEL: Daily Flights from Lima (50 minutes) and Cusco (30 minutes).

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The cuisine of Arequipa has attained a degree of international recognition, if not downright fame. It does boast a greater variety in its culinary offerings than most –though not all- of the other departments of Peru. It is characterized by a distinct and savory seasoning that can –for those aficionados of the more extreme piquant- become quite intense if required, through the generous use of ají (chili peppers). It is significant that the popular eateries where traditional regional dishes are offered are called “Picanterías” (Piquanteries). The variety of the Arequipeñan cuisine can initially be summed up in one sweeping concept: soups. They have created a different soup for every day of the week. There exists an intermediate range that lies somewhere betwixt a crème and a stew: the Chupe, a kind of casserole. It is thicker than a soup and contains milk, but also diverse solids. The most popular is the Chupe de Camarones (Chupe of Crawfish, Shrimp, Rock Lobster, Crab and/or any other creature worthy of being considered crustacean, of which the sea coast and the river deltas of the region possess a limitless amount of), but there will also be potatoes, a bit of corn on the cob, perhaps broad beans and sometimes rice included as well. From there on, the main courses,: Ocopa Arequipeña –slices or halves of boiled potatoes with a garnishing of one or two olives, a leaf of lettuce and half of a boiled egg, all topped by a thick creamy sauce of hot and medium-hot peppers, peanuts and other goodies; Rocoto Relleno, another member of the populous Capsicum family (which includes everything from Sweet peppers and bell peppers to chili peppers; all native American) emptied clean of flesh and seeds (wherein dwells the heat or fire of the pepper), stuffed with sweet peas, ground beef, diced onions, cheese, etc. Next comes the Adobo de Chancho. This, again, is one of those semi liquid-solid preparations, but no common fare. It is marinated for about 12 hours in a solution mainly composed of beer and/or fermented maize beer called chicha, with a glorious variety of seasonings and potions added. Then, in the wee hours before dawn, the entire ensemble is placed in an enormous cauldron upon a moderate flame and allowed to stew in its own juice, merrily bubbling for the next 4 to 6 hours. Onions are later added and with about one or two hours to go, a couple of dozen rocoto peppers of all colors–uncut, intact-- are gently placed upon the surface and allowed to freely float around, in a way such that they will “sweat” or transpire, thusly imparting a certain pungency. It is served piping hot and reputed to be THE greatest remedy for any and all hangovers. It is customary to eat Adobo somewhere between 9:30 and 11:30 A.M. Any later is considered a breach of culinary etiquette. There are also Soltero de Queso (a type of cold salad); Pastel de Papas (potato pie); Broiled ribs (Costillar frito); Cuy (Guinea Pig) and Rabbit (Conejo) baked, broiled or steamed as well as stewed. Cauchi (a similar form of preparation) and Chaque. As desserts, the Queso helado (Frozen cheese) is recommended. And to drink Chicha de Jora (fermented maize beer, and the locally distilled Anis (anisette).

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January 6th: Anniversary of the founding of Mollendo, the seaport of Arequipa. The celebration and festivity of Epiphany take place in Tiabaya (Bajada de Reyes Magos; Visit of the Magi or the Three Wise Men).

February 2nd: Festivity of the Virgen de la Candelaria in the district of Chivay

February 3rd: Festivity of the Virgen de la Candelaria in the districts of Cayma and Characato. In Caravelí, the festivity of the Virgen del Buen Paso offers celebrations that last 4 days. Among the events? Cock fights, bull fights and parades of Peruvian Paso Horses (Caballos de Paso).

Holy Week (Semana Santa): Religious ceremonies throughout the entire Department of Arequipa, along with processions and spiritual reclusion. Men and women dress in mourning.

May 1st: Pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Chapi, 45 km from Arequipa. Pilgrims from all over the nation and continent arrive to greet and honor their patroness.

August 15th: Anniversary of Arequipa with civic and religious festivities held throughout the week. Diverse artistic and cultural activities, cockfights, sporting events, fireworks displays and Mardi Gras. Conference and presentation of foreign performers and artists In Castilla, the Festivity of the Virgen de la Asunción, with popular festivals, Mardi Gras and various competitions among the districts.

August 30th: Santa Rosa, typically traditional Religious festivity and celebration in Caravelí, with Holy Masses, Processions and Churches profusely decorated with flowers and other ornaments. In Castilla, popular verbenas, contests and sporting events are held.

September 8th: The Festivity of the Virgen de las Peñas in Castilla. A major folkloric display, particularly in Aplao The Mayordomos (Masters of ceremonies) exert themselves to ensure their guests feel comfortable and satisfied.

November 1st – 2nd: All Saints’ and all Souls’ Days. Families gather at cemeteries bringing music, food, and drink to accompany their beloved dead.

November 9th: Jubilee Anniversary of Camaná. The entire population goes out to the streets to dance, sing and party.

December 8th: Festivity of the Immaculate Conception in Chivay and Cayma.

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